We had fabulous weather and were able to get a lot accomplished in the last
five days. On the 3rd myself, Tim, Namgya, and Suz headed up to low camp.
We went heavy carrying supplies meant for high on the mountain. The main
objectives were to assemble the rescue cache at high camp, stage a rescue
cache just below the summit pyramid, and retrieve the 1000m of rescue rope
that had been airdropped about 3 km from high camp, and move it to the top
of the fixed lines.
We pushed hard for low camp on the 3rd and despite heavy loads we were able
to ski quickly up glacier. The following day we moved up the fixed lines to
high camp. We each carried supplies for the rescue caches which were heavy,
things like bottles of oxygen, extra sled, ice tools, hardware, and more
rope. The day was long and hard, but we all made it up fine. We installed
high camp and moved in. The intent was to be up high for 3 days or more
dependent on weather. The first night was rough, no one slept well. We
awoke the next day and set off to retrieve the rescue rope. Tim had
organized an air drop a week earlier to save us the labor of carrying some
200lbs of rope up to high camp. The rope had been put into body bags, which
were needed up high anyway in case of a fatality. The two body bags weren't
terribly far from camp, however the loads were heavy. Tim and I split the
weight of one body bag, about 120lbs, while Namgya and Suz split the weight
of the second body bag. Moving this amount of weight wouldn't normally be
heavy at sea level, but moving these loads at over 4,500 meters is a
struggle. We moved slowly and worked our way around crevasses and up snow
slopes back to high camp. Our next task was to sort and install the new
rescue cache at high camp. It included a large sled meant for hauling a
casualty down, 3 bottles of oxygen, and a barrel full of extra equipment.
We anchored it to some rocks, behind a scoop of hard snow to protect it from
the rough winter ahead. We ate early and climbed in our bags and readied
ourselves for another rough night of sleep. Around midnight a Russian team
arrived at high camp carrying a load up for their clients. They were load
and proceeded to speak loudly in Russian in elevating tone for almost an
hour before I had to stick my head out of the tent and reprimand their
inconsideration.
Around 7am we arose wearily and prepared for a long summit day. The weather
was clear and cold. We carried another fiberglass sled, oxygen, hardware,
and clothing for installation below the summit in the event of a rescue
situation. We arrived at its intended destination about 5 hours later. We
had all slept badly, had blisters, and were tired from the days prior of man
hauling. We anchored the sled to some rocks and talk about what we were
going to do next. We had entertained the idea of climbing another peak in
close proximity to Vinson summit, a peak called Sublime peak which is only
30 meters shorter than Vinson and had only been climbed twice, but because
it sits on the massif is not considered a standalone peak. Just as we were
about to set off Tim spotted a thin ribbon of rock, ice, and snow located on
the Vinson buttress and led almost straight to the summit. We all looked at
each other with grins, and I started moving towards it. I led up this gully
of 65 degree snow and rock. Most of the climbing was 4th class and easy,
however a fall on any of our parts would have been fatal. Eventually the
line got steeper and ran out of snow and we worked our way through bands of
frozen rock and rotten ice. This too eventually ended and transitioned into
hard pack snow and ice up to 70 degrees that led directly to the summit I
topped out on the ridge using only one ice tool and my hand to grab the icy
ridge above. When I pulled over the top I involuntarily let out a primal
yell. This was one of my finest days down here. I looked left and only a
few meters away was the summit. Namgya was right behind me and as he topped
out we hugged and high-five. He was stoked! Suz crept up shortly after and
was greeted warmly by Namgya and myself. Due in part to bad blisters and
hard terrain Tim came up last, moving cautiously and deliberately over the
ridge. We all walked together to summit all feeling like we had
accomplished something this day. After a short time on the summit we
descended back to high camp. Eight hours round trip, such a good day in the
mountains.
The following morning, after actually sleeping for 3 solid hours and 6 hours
of tossing and turning we prepped high camp to leave. The last major task
was to haul the ropes down to the top of the fixed lines. The sleds were
heavy and would whip past, you had to do everything possible not to be swept
off your feet. I felt like a sled wrangler, constantly raining it in and
trying not to let it over take me. At the top of the fixed lines were
ditched the ropes meant for any high angle rescue that may need to take
place on the fixed lines, and descended. The ski down was hard because we
were all wrecked. Namgya wiped out many times. We saw several parties
heading up, they all congratulating us in various languages, Molly at base
camp had leaked out the news of our summit day. Back in base camp now we
are all resting and enjoying some down time. As soon as the rest of the
parties descend I will be flying back to Patriot Hills. It has been an
amazing season, and I feel like we were able to accomplish a great deal..
The amount of effort and energy put in by all the guides has been amazing
and inspiring. I feel lucky to be working with so many good guides from
such varied backgrounds. I am getting excited about coming home and thawing
out.
That's all for now. Hope to se everyone in a few weeks back home! I can't
wait to have some good Mexican food and go rock climbing!
Vinson Base Camp
Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions
vinson.base@antarctic-logistics.com
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