The Ice Stream

The Ice Stream

The is a route up Vinson Massif called the Slovenian Route, or the Ice
Stream. It is rarely done. In fact the last time a staff member of ALE/ANI
did it was when Conrad Anchor set the speed record on the mountain almost 10
years ago. Pachi, one of Chile's most accomplished female climbers and
myself were sent out to scout the route and see if it could be guided
safely. We just returned.

Yesterday we left base camp and set off to climb the ice stream. We
traveled light, no tent, no sleeping bags, only cloths, food, water, and
hardware. When we left Vinson base camp it was clear, but plumbs of snow
could be seen blowing off the summit pyramid. We were on route from base
camp in about an hour and a half, a quick time made possible by skis. We
skinned up to the base of the route. It was much steeper than I had
anticipated. The seracs (blocks of ice) that choked the middle of the
stream where enormous and the ice to the left appeared to go on forever.
The bergschrund (or large crevasse that separates the steepest part of the
ice headwall from the valley floor) was big and required a bit of
negotiating, but managed to make it across by swinging our tools onto the
other side off the mote and kicking steps underneath us. The route was much
steeper than we had originally thought, steeper than the fixed lines (which
we put in last season), and was very continuous. We climbed via the left
side. The snow quality ranged from bullet proof to wind slab. One minute
you would be cramponing hard ice, the next 4 inches of slab would break
loose underfoot, forcing you to bear down hard with your ice tool to avoid
losing ground. It was very cold and we traveled faster than most would, but
slower than I would have liked to.
About half way up we began to experience high winds and spin drift avalanche
coming from the ridge above. Our purpose was to scout the easiest ascent
line, but Pachi and I could resist at looking for a new route variation. We
were thinking that we might be able to climb a rock gully/chimney to the
left on the upper portion of the route that had been unclimbed. It looked
impossible from the ground, but once under it seemed do-able. Our eyes got
big as we imagined ticking off a new variation to the summit, but the
weather was deteriorating, and we both realized that if you went the more
difficult way there may be no easy way down if forced to retreat. So we
shifted gears, and just tried to get as high as we could. We continued to
move up into the bowl below a rock band, to the left of a finishing bulge of
blue ice. The route going up the blue ice, to the left of the hanging
glacier looked too steep for clients. The mixed section through the rock
band will go easier, much like the rock ridge on Mt. Shinn (the third
highest, which I was able to guide last season). About 300m from the top,
high winds and cold, attacked us furiously. We switched to down jackets,
goggles, and mittens. I stuck my ski pole into the snow to put on my
goggles and wind ripped it out and sent it 1,000 meters into the seracs. My
hands were so cold, and even though the head of my ice axes are insulated I
could feel the metal sucking the life from my hands.

I looked at Pachi and she looked as cold as I did. We had a quick moment to
check our pride, and decided it wasn't worth it, time to go down. We had a
lone way to go down, and we were already 9 hours into the climb. We
descended the route on foot, no rappels. It took us about 7.5 hours from
the valley to our high point at 4,300 m. Only 200m from the top and 700m
from the summit. The descent was slow and tenuous on foot. We didn't have
enough materials to rappel, so we down climbed the steep sections and walked
gingerly down the rest. It took us 11 hours round trip to base camp. If
the weather would have been nice I think we would have been able to top out
on the ice stream in about 8 hours. With a client, with heavy packs, it
could have taken in access of 10-12 hours just on the ice stream. If a
client were to come here with the intent of climbing the ice stream, they
would have to very strong, fit, and motivated. They would also have to be
incredibly reliable. It would take too long to the climb pitch by pitch,
but it was so steep protection would have to be placed, meaning the client
would have to be on their A-game. Although I was meant to guide it in the
next coming days, I have a hard time believing my client will be both fit
and technically capable enough to do a 2000m /6,000 ft ice flow to the
summit of Vinson Massif. So we will have to see when he arrives. If
nothing else we will make a rapid ascent of the mountain, assisted by skies.
Alpine style up and down in 3 days, that should get his heart racing.

Vinson Base Camp
Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions
vinson.base@antarctic-logistics.com

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